An elegant and slightly flamboyant Japanese-Peruvian fusion with delicate, floral notes and a fruity finish
Inspired by our restaurant’s Japanese-Peruvian roots, and to mark the 1-2 November Day of the Dead celebrations, this drink combines white rum and sake with a dash of bitters and a red-wine float: the result is a light, layered cocktail with delicate, floral notes, juicy berry fruit and just enough theatre to impress without being hard to make.
Across nations and classes, there is one thing we can all agree on – that putting delicious things inside dough is a good idea
On a recent Saturday morning in Paris, I made a life-changing discovery. It came in the frozen aisle of an Asian supermarket: you can buy premade dumpling wrappers. Take a moment to think about the implications of this. Chinese shrimp wontons? Ukrainian potato varenyky? Italian veal ravioli? You’re halfway there before you’ve even chopped an onion (as long as you’re not precious about using exactly the right dough for each recipe).
Since then, I’ve fallen into a full-blown dumpling rabbit hole, my nights spent on YouTube, watching grandmothers sitting in circles, pinching dough. So many shapes. So many techniques. Team inward pleats or outward?
Joseph de Weck is an associate fellow with the German Council on Foreign Relations and writes for Guardian Europe from Zürich and Paris
Warm your hands on these sweet little envelopes of gently spiced, toffee-glossed apples wrapped in puff pastry. Perfect Bonfire Night fodder
These plump and rustic little parcels are perfect for Bonfire Night: warming, portable and, wrapped in a napkin and held in one hand, easy to eat outdoors. Filled with gently spiced, toffee-glossed apples, they are deliberately more homely hand pies than anything overly neat or patisserie-like. The small amount of miso in the filling deepens the toffee flavour and rounds out the sweetness, without making it taste too savoury or funky.
One of the UK budget’s big surprises? A discount on gherkins. And while they’ll always be good on a burger, there are many more unusual ways to indulge, from fried cheese treats to savoury ice-cream
In John Healey’s first budget as chancellor this week, he announced that he will remove import tariffs on more than 100 products – including, crucially, gherkins. Baked beans and boiled sweets, too, but gherkins stole the limelight, perhaps due to gen Z’s long-held obsession with all things pickled, including cucumbers.
But for those who think of a gherkin as either something to be chomped straight from the jar or swiftly removed from a Big Mac, do not worry: there are, in fact, plenty of ways to get more bang for your newly discounted gherkin buck.
Vines on volcanic soil are hard to grow and their grapes are hard-won, but it all combines to produce wines with a very particular sense of place
Good stories need jeopardy. Take The Princess Bride, one of my favourite films, which I recently introduced to my mildly terrified children. It’s a cult love story of high peril: Westley, believed dead, sets out to win back Buttercup (forced into marriage with another) on a quest involving pirates, duels, torture, a miracle and a battle of wits over a goblet of poisoned wine. There is struggle, magic and, ultimately, emotional reward. You’ll need to stay with me here: volcanic vines, too, tend to have a rocky journey, albeit with happy results for the drinker.
My ears perk up at the term “volcanic wine”, despite being less a style than a geological category. Volcanic soils take many forms – ash, basalt, obsidian, pumice, tuff – and interact with climate, altitude, water availability, grape variety and farming to produce wines with a very particular sense of place. Often, they have little in common with each other; a deep, rich nerello mascalese from Mount Etna’s north side bears little comparison to a light, leathery listán negro from Tenerife, say. And yet I’m sure there is something – perhaps it’s more a feeling than a taste – that I get from wines from volcanic terroirs. “It’s a hard thing to get across,” agrees importer Nic Rizzi of Modal Wines, “but they do have an extra tension.”
I’m writing this from the North Sea coast, where I’m in a semi-enforced lockdown at my in-laws’ house. It’s only temporary. Like most of the UK, storms Austen and Boelo hit us in quick succession, and we’ve been in and out of power cuts ever since. We were in the kitchen when the first storm hit and we slipped into an eight-hour power cut.
Of course we didn’t know it would be eight hours at the time, so you can only imagine the panic-raid lunch of all the things we worried might go off: blue cheese and cold chicken on semi-defrosted bread; fridge-cold stewed apple with warming yoghurt; and, finally, a thumb of goat’s cheese with some dark chocolate that I found in my bag. Once the rain stopped, we headed to a pub seemingly untouched by this so-called “weather bomb” and had chips. All in all, a fairly civilised array of picky bits, though I appreciate goat’s cheese and chocolate isn’t for everyone, which is why I ate them in the bathroom.
Catherine’s Originals denies Mondelēz claims in London high court of ‘passing off’ and trademark infringement
The owner of Toblerone is taking legal action against a tiny British vegan chocolate brand which it claims has been copying the Swiss chocolate bar’s famous chunky shape.
Mondelēz has filed papers at the high court in London accusing Catherine’s Original’s of “passing off” and trademark infringement with its O’bar – a length of chocolate divided into segments each with a rounded semi-oval hump.
Catherine’s Originals denies Mondelēz claims in London high court of ‘passing off’ and trademark infringement
The owner of Toblerone is taking legal action against a tiny British vegan chocolate brand that it claims has been copying the Swiss chocolate bar’s famous chunky shape.
Mondelēz has filed papers at the high court in London accusing Catherine’s Originals of “passing off” and trademark infringement with its O’bar – a length of chocolate divided into segments each with a rounded semi-oval hump.
A historical adventure deep in the very heart of pasta country in southern Italy unexpectedly unearths a sauce with roots in Senegal
About 30 kilometres south of Naples, the town of Gragnano is surrounded by the Monti Lattari mountain range – the limestone backbone of the Sorrento peninsula. Historically, a series of natural springs fed into a larger stream called Vernotico, which flowed down the mountainside, passing through what was at the time the small village of Gragnano.
The natural slope of the terrain was fortuitous, because it allowed for the construction of a sequence of mills, which started in around 1263. During a visit to Gragnano last month, local historian Giuseppe Di Massa explained how it all worked; how gravity drove the flow of water from one mill to the next, in order to power vertical millstones – a system created for the inconsistent flow. The valley, with its clever water system, became known as the valley of the mills; its role milling grain, which arrived at the nearby port of Castellammare di Stabia, a vital operation to Naples and surrounding towns.
This article was amended on 30 October 2026 to correct misspellings of pasta makers Garofalo and Ducato d’Amalfi.
Obama has been accused of ‘snobbery’ over his Trump diss, as people rush to defend the restaurant chain’s ‘affordable opulence’
Around lunchtime on Tuesday, a Rolls-Royce stopped at the intersection of Beverly Drive and Dayton Way in Beverly Hills, California. Local people in athleisure walked past Balenciaga, Dior and Prada boutiques, as visitors on Hollywood bus tours ogled nearby Rodeo Drive, where Burberry and Louis Vuitton shops meet at a celebrated street corner.
Up the street, across from the upmarket Erewhon grocery store – home to $21 smoothies – a few diners sat outside an American landmark: the Cheesecake Factory.
The Long Wave is two! And over the past year, once again, it has surprised us with the breadth of stories and events in the diaspora.
The Long Wave has also evolved into a large community, with many readers getting in touch and sharing their thoughts, tips and sometimes their polite disagreements. We welcome and relish all of it. Here is the team’s selection of our favourite editions.
A fool is absurdly simple – just fruit stirred through custard or yoghurt with. maybe a bit of cream – and you can then add whatever bits and bobs you fancy from the fridge
Fool is one of my go-to desserts for two reasons: first, its pure simplicity – it’s little more than custard or yoghurt mixed with whipped cream and pureed fruit – and, second, its adaptability to the seasons. Gooseberry, rhubarb and strawberry are traditionally the most foolish fruits, but just about any fruit goes. British blackberries are still available and apples are in their prime right now, so I’ve gone for those, but use whatever you’ve got in store.
I usually make fool with yoghurt, not least because it’s much less work than making custard from scratch, but I’ve got lots of leftover custard from this week’s Food Filter taste test, so I’m going for a custard base here. I’m always looking for ways to use up small amounts of bits and pieces in the fridge, such as the end of a pot of custard or yoghurt, then add a few other ingredients to elevate remnants into regalia.
Unexpected flavour combos and luxury versions of old favourites are this month’s cocoa tips
Never in a million years did I expect to like chocolate tortillas, and yet here I am recommending this Frankenstein’s monster: M&S’s Dark Chocolate Chilli Tortillas. I don’t know what subversive minds thought of this across the boardroom table, but they work. While you’re there, and if you like mint and chocolate, M&S’s Peppermint and Mint Chocolate Rolls are worth squirrelling away in your basket for eating while you write your Christmas cards (early mention).
If you like super-creamy milk chocolate but are trying to buy better quality, give Zotter’s Squaring the Circle 50% Milk with Date Sugar a go. It’s one of the creamiest milks I’ve tasted in recent times, and date sugar is still sugar, but we can all pretend it’s healthy. Once you’re on the Cocoa Runners site looking at Zotter, its Butter Caramel Filled bar is rightfully a bestseller: creamy, chewy, caramelly and buttery – just what you need for colder autumn days.
Food safety campaigners have long been concerned about pesticide residues on lemons, limes and oranges – and now a social media post about it has gone viral. How safe is it to eat lemon cake or drink a G&T with ice and a slice?
Do you sprinkle citrus zest on to your cooking or drink hot water with a slice of lemon? According to an Instagram post that went viral last week, you shouldn’t. “Select citrus fruits at Lidl now come with a ‘Peel unfit for consumption’ warning,” posts @wholefoodwarrior. She photographs some of the supermarket’s labels, which list the post-harvest chemicals used to conserve the fruit: azoxystrobin and fludioxonil (limes) and imazalil, 2-phenylphenol, thiabendazole, pyrimethanil and fludioxonil (easy peelers), plus E903 in the peel’s wax coating (both).
The 10,500 comments on the post are largely appalled. So what are these substances? And how worried should consumers be?
Aubergines cooked with coconut, chilli, tamarind and curry leaves, and a gingery vegetable stew with coconut and green chillies
Both these hearty curries use coconut as part of their base gravy. The region of Kutch in Gujarat is brimming with vegetable curries, and the bhagare baingan features many classic Kutchi ingredients; it has several similarities to the Hyderabadi version, too. I’ve used baby aubergines, but if need be you can use regular diced aubergines instead. Avial, meanwhile, is often served at celebrations in south India, and this version is a Keralan recipe made with a flavourful coconut paste.
A close-up image shows a bowl of blue M&M candies. | Peter Macdiarmid/Getty Images
If you were anything like me as a kid, trick-or-treating meant one, maybe two, pillowcases full of candy every Halloween.
And as fun as collecting all that candy could be, the real fun began when I got home and dumped my winnings onto my bedroom floor. That’s when the sorting began.
I had some very specific rules: The usual suspects — think Smarties, Tootsie Rolls, and Dum Dums — went into one pile. Fun-size chocolates, like Snickers, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, and Baby Ruths, went into another. And then there was my prized pile: Skittles, Warheads, Starbursts, and Sour Patch Kids. Those were meant to be eaten slowly throughout November. The rest was fair game.
The ways we sort and eat our Halloween candy are decided by some very particular, personal rules. But Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. would like to add another distinction: Which candies are made with artificial dyes?
Kennedy’s ire for synthetic food dyes is years old, and they’ve become a major target of his Make America Healthy Again movement. Last year, he announced a plan to remove “petroleum-based synthetic dyes” from foods, arguing that companies “shouldn’t be feeding it to the rest of us.”
That plan has become a multimillion-dollar problem for Mars, the maker of M&Ms, which promised customers last year that they would create an all-natural version of their tasty chocolatey treats. As the Wall Street Journal reported this summer, however, its latest offering is missing one of the most iconic colored M&Ms — the blue M&M.
M&Ms aren’t the only snack food in Kennedy’s crosshairs: He has called out Doritos, Cheez-Its, Cap’n Crunch, and gummy bears, saying their ingredients include “a lot of poisons.” On Fox News, he described what children eat as “food-like substances” and also said that “some of it was made in petroleum refineries.”
In reality, the evidence is more complicated, because the Food and Drug Administration has long considered many of these approved synthetic dyes to be safe under its rules, while acknowledging that some children may be sensitive to them. Kennedy’s sweeping accusations go much further.
Still, pressure from Kennedy and those in the MAHA movement has led many companies to rethink the recipes of your favorite snacks. But producing those alternatives isn’t easy or cheap, as the story of the blue M&M illustrates.
Jesse Newman, a food reporter for the Wall Street Journal, went inside a Mars factory in Topeka, Kansas, to see the process for herself. She spoke with Today, Explained co-host Noel King about why blue is so difficult to produce naturally, and what changing a candy’s color actually accomplishes.
Below is an excerpt of their conversation, edited for length and clarity. There’s much more in the full podcast, so listen to Today, Explained wherever you get your podcasts, including Apple Podcasts, Pandora, and Spotify.
The Secretary of Health and Human Services, RFK Jr., has some issues with the blue M&M. What, what exactly happened? How did it draw his attention?
He is not a fan of any sort of chemical. He’s really concerned about toxins in our food. And Blue 1, which is the food dye that makes blue M&Ms blue, is a synthetic chemical.
He really takes issue with artificial dyes. He believes that they cause hyperactivity in kids, some neurological challenges. He thinks artificial dyes are linked to cancer.
As a member of the Trump administration, he formally set out to get them removed, didn’t he?
Oh yeah. He’s been putting a lot of pressure on the industry to strip artificial dyes from all kinds of products.
What do we know factually about artificial dyes? We hear that they’re bad for us. We hear that a lot of things are bad for us. We’re all still alive and kicking. Are artificial dyes really detrimental to our health?
The FDA for decades has said that there are nine artificial dyes approved for use in food. And they said that those artificial dyes are safe and have said so for years and years and years, as have other global bodies, so long as they’re used in accordance with some of the standards that the FDA laid out.
A California state agency has found that dyes are linked again to hyperactivity in children. And the FDA itself has said, ‘Okay, we think that these dyes are safe for the vast majority of kids, but some kids might be more sensitive to them than others.’
So I think the real issue is that it’s a chemical doing it. They’re purely cosmetic. They don’t do anything except color food. There is no nutritional benefit that you are getting from these dyes. And so do we need them? Absolutely not.
I think one of the issues is that if you’re looking at the ways our food contributes to health problems, artificial dyes are probably pretty low on the list.
You went inside a factory where they make M&Ms, and you looked at how they’re trying to make this happen. Tell me everything.
I went to this plant in Topeka, Kansas, to see how they were made. And it’s a massive industrial food plant, where they mix these colors and spray them onto these small chocolate orbs, which they refer to as lentils.
The M&Ms move through the plant, and they arrive at these massive [machines] that they call pans, but they look like big tumble dryers. And the M&Ms just tumble around in these pans, and the color is sprayed on. It’s a very, very industrial process, millions of M&Ms a day. And the challenge that Mars has now is making that happen with a natural dye instead of an artificial one.
A blue natural dye is the challenge. What are the problems?
They’ve been working on this for years. And they went with a product called spirulina, which is made from algae. But spirulina comes with a host of problems that they are now dealing with.
Blue 1, which is the artificial dye, arrives at the factories as a liquid. And they pour it into these mixers and they mix it up with this sugary syrup and it’s pretty easy to handle. Spirulina arrives as a powder. So now you’re mixing a powder into this same mixture, into the same recipe, and that is very different.
Because spirulina is a protein, the resulting mixture becomes a lot thicker. What they found was that the mixture containing spirulina would really clog up the piping. It was getting stuck. It moved less smoothly through the pipes.
Also because it is a protein, it was starting to coat and build up on the inside of the machinery. And when that happens, it’s a food safety hazard. It can mold; it can cause problems. For many reasons, it was a challenge to handle.
How much did this all cost?
I should say it’s not done. Mars wouldn’t give me an official figure for how much they spent. But they said that they are spending millions and millions of dollars.
They’re having to retrofit their plants, essentially. Mars said that they’re having to change about 300 types of machinery in their plants. It’s a real investment. And at the end of the day, it all comes down to cost.
What did they actually end up getting done? What was the outcome here?
Mars said what they committed to was that they were going to release a new version of their M&Ms and a few other of their products this year that were made with natural dyes instead of artificial dyes.
They didn’t come out and say we’re eliminating artificial dyes. And so folks should be really clear about that: Their artificially dyed M&Ms aren’t going anywhere. They are still on shelves.
What they said is that they’re going to come out with an option that is naturally dyed. So they tried to do that. And what they found was that they couldn’t do it at a cost that was acceptable to them. With the blue and with the spirulina, it would have been far too expensive to make it work at scale. We’re talking millions and millions and millions of M&Ms per day.
They had problems making the green, the blue, and the brown M&M because, if you go back to your elementary school color theory, they needed blue to make all of those M&Ms. Ultimately they said, “Okay, we can do green. There’s little enough spirulina in the green to make the green M&M.” But blue and brown, they are not able to get there yet due to the amount of spirulina that those colors require.
And so earlier this year, they launched their naturally dyed version of M&Ms with red, orange, yellow, and green M&Ms. And if you take a look at this bag, my colleague referred to these as autumnal. They look very autumnal.
They look sort of muted.
You know, it really isn’t the same. It looks like a mature person’s M&M.
At the end of the day, what are the changes to the M&Ms? Let’s say I go online and get the natural dyed ones. What does that mean for my health? Am I now a healthy and virtuous person if I’m eating the autumnal M&Ms?
It means very little.
I would say you are, hopefully, still enjoying that sugary treat and the pick-me-up in the afternoon as you’re starting to tire. But you’re still eating candy; you’re still eating sugar. It really hasn’t changed very much.
Retailers also report jump in purchases of wind-up radios and torches to deal with extreme weather and cyber-attacks
Sales of tinned foods, bottled water, wind-up radios and torches have surged after the UK government advised households to prepare for emergencies.
Retailers have reported a jump in sales of items linked to preparation for emergencies such as extreme weather or cyber-attacks. The Be Ready campaign was launched last week with the aim of persuading households to lay in supplies to last 72 hours.
When it comes to ginger, personal taste often trumps strict precision, say our experts as they get to the root of the issue
Why do so many recipes state the amount of fresh ginger in “thumbs” or centimetres. With it being so variable in shape, why don’t you use weight? Nick, by email
Let’s gather some of the Guardian food troops and ask them to explain themselves. First up in front of the class is our own perfectionist, Felicity Cloake: “That’s a very good question, and I don’t think there is a very good answer,” she says. “Maybe it’s just convention, because sometimes it feels a bit fussy to give a precise weight for the likes of ginger, onions and other staples if you’re not, say, Heston Blumenthal.” Often, it doesn’t really matter that much, either: “If you give a precise weight, people will perhaps think it’s very important and worry if they’re a few grams out,” she adds. In other words, if Nick were to use a smidge more (or less) ginger than Cloake in, say, her dal, it’s unlikely to make or break it.
Cloake’s fellow columnist Georgina Hayden agrees: “Unlike measuring a ratio of risotto rice to stock, or making a cake, the typical recipes I use ginger in, such as curries, don’t have to be precise,” she says. “After all, cooking should be as instinctive as possible, rather than relying on digital scales.” However, Nick is right in that ginger does vary hugely in shape, Cloake says: “If it was a very thick piece, or it wasn’t thumb-shaped, I’d cut it so the cumulative flesh of the ginger was roughly the same as the cumulative flesh of a thumb. You’re just trying to give a rough amount, without being too prescriptive. But he’s right, we should probably move to grams.”
A new report has found many crops are far less nutritious than they once were, so we need to eat more of them. Here is how to get your five portions of fruit and veg a day, easily and affordably – and potentially increase that to ten
When Eva Humphries first started working as a nutritionist, she met a client who had just found out he had high blood pressure and high cholesterol, and was on the verge of type 2 diabetes. He had no idea how to change his diet or lifestyle.
The man broke down and cried for 45 minutes, leaving Humphries with “no idea of what to do”, she says. In the final 15 minutes of the session, scrambling for a quick but helpful message, she finally said: “When you look at a plate of food, can you just make half of it veg for me?”
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