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Squash salad and chocolate mousse: Dean Parker’s recipes for early autumn

Celebrate the flavours of the coming season via this rewarding salad and rich dessert to share

As the days start to shorten and the temperature drops (finally!), the produce becomes richer, sweeter and more comforting, and the onset of autumn is a time of year that naturally brings people together around the table, which is something I’ve always loved about food. At the restaurant, we try to let the ingredients do the talking, and we work closely with growers and producers to make the most of whatever’s in season. Today’s recipes celebrate some of my favourite seasonal flavours: the salad is simple but deeply satisfying, balancing sweet roast squash with bitter greens and a punchy black olive tapenade. For dessert, meanwhile, chocolate mousse with poached fruit is my idea of autumn in a bowl, not least because quince has a beautiful, floral character that develops as it cooks, and pairs perfectly with dark chocolate and the nutty richness of browned butter. The creme fraiche adds freshness and balance, and brings everything together. Both dishes are rooted in the philosophy that guides my cooking: celebrate the season, respect great ingredients and create food that encourages people to slow down and enjoy each other’s company.

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© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins. Food styling assistant: Georgia Rudd.

© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins. Food styling assistant: Georgia Rudd.

© Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian. Food styling: Tamara Vos. Prop styling: Anna Wilkins. Food styling assistant: Georgia Rudd.

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High in cocoa, high on nostalgia: the chocolate I love most now

Including, to my surprise, a 100% cacao bar …

Although I’m un peu fatiguée of chocolates in bonbon shape with coloured cocoa-butter splashes atop, I appreciate this is the way many chocolates truffles are made. Overcoming that prejudice, I tucked into a box of Scoff chocolates. They were beautifully fresh tasting – they are made in batches throughout the year and the latest batch has just been let loose. I liked every one of the nine flavours I tested, from lemon to malted milk. But the ingredient list is long and a bit mainstream; a cleaner, more artisan approach and this would be a winning brand.

Marks & Spencer has brought out some 1980s classics in original packaging for those wanting to go full Rivals: look out for Now!, Jet, Sparks and Coconut Grove and see which chocolate classics they remind you of. My testers loved them.

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© Photograph: Karen Thomas/M&S

© Photograph: Karen Thomas/M&S

© Photograph: Karen Thomas/M&S

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